Life has been rather busy since The North Face Cup Japan 2014 in early February. I've since started my teaching practicum and have begun to finally go full swing into teaching.What time I dont spend doing up lesson plans and working on my next lessons, I spend it coaching the VJC netball girls. Perhaps for this few weeks I will cool down on my climbing intensity and really work reality for now.

I did a small Q&A for Onsight Climbing Gym for their online news bulletin:


Do check it out for some details! And they cover some of the local climbers and happenings at the moment as well! :)

I feel that I must truly write about this trip, as its been a really awesome one! Sure beats the previous one I went to, for that I am truly grateful for the opportunity once again and the grace of God to allow me the win in Boulderactive 2013 back in August.

I was bound for Japan about 3 weeks after school started for the year, together with Ponti Hardiyanto from Indonesia, who also won the Open Men category for Boulderactive 2013. Prior to this, I was neck deep in paper work, trying to apply for my leave and clearance from the ministry to go to Japan, making sure that my lessons are taken care of, homework all done, etc. All messy and unsatisfactory conclusion aside, I did go to Japan (and made sure I did, no matter what!!) I paid for my own tickets this time, with my hard earned prize money from the previous few local boulder competitions I participated in (yay!).

I arrived in Tokyo 3 days before the competition.My first meal of the day was at this nice udon place that Yuji brought us to:

Having udon and tempura

That first day, I met Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson who were also guest climbers for The North Face Cup this year. Daniel Woods and Kim Jain were not able to make it though. So we went to this gym called Caramba nearby Iruma to boulder and climbed for the day. The place was really nice (but really cold! because it was night by then and cold just seeped in through the walls)! Had to constantly sit near the heater to keep my shoes and fingers warm.

Caramba Gym

 Right after that, Yuji brought us back to his place and we had home cook, japanese steam boat. Very CNY feeling! Vegetarian too!

steamboat!

The next day, we had time to kill, so Yuji brought us to this little mountain, Mitake, near his home and we bouldered there! The area was nice, snow had fallen and a river snaked around the boulders. It felt so good to touch rock again, and before the comp too! Crazily psyched man. Being surrounded by nature and just really soak into the fact that I was there in Japan, bouldering, was just surreal. Already Day 2, and I'm already having the best trip of my life. :) Great way to kick start my year for sure!

Group photo!

The next day, I woke up to snow! I immediately opened the windows and stuck my hand out to catch some snowflakes. HAHA. Havent really seen snow in real life before, the cold didnt get to me either! Everything was fluffy and white - for now...


Base Camp on the first day of qualifying was packed! As usual, the kids wow-ed me and I spent a good amount of time reading the routes and watching people's beta. Really psyched for my competition the next day!

Even helped Base Camp shovel some snow for the fun of it! Snow was calf deep at the end of the night. Crazy! Walking in it was easy at all. :p

Semi-finals for Division 1 was different from last year. There were some changes in the wall features and more technical balancey routes were set. That said, I felt that all my training 5-6 months before had come to this and I was ready for it! (Even more so, because I touched rock and it was like magic because you dont get these in Singapore.. haha) I managed to finish 5 out of 8 routes and placed 7th position in all, missing finals by 1 spot! Exceeded my expectation of hitting top 10 (or better last years position). I knew that going to finals would be the next step. I flashed through the powerful overhang, but got stumped by a bridgey and slopey route. But I still managed to clear those crucial ones before the time was up! Did not manage to try 2 routes AT ALL and thus held no bonus to rise me up to rank for the finals. I really had fun during the climb. We had 50 minutes this time, and climbed together with the Division 1 guys. It was amazing!

Heres one of the routes I did:

Semi-final results for Div 1 women

Getting reachy on this undercling volume move

My first route of the day, a balance slab problem which I took my time on. :p

Finals was just as crazy and only videos and tell how insanely strong the japanese climbers are:

Some Singaporean represent at Base Camp!

The North Face Athletes

Anyways! The rock trip was great. We headed to Toyota and had two solid days of climbing (I wish there was more!) at Ogyu and Komiyama. It was granite and if not for the past few days spent creating rock hard skin with Climb On, I would have succumbed to painful fingertips by my first climb. Raw skin is not something you want to fall victim to when your outdoors, knowing you might never have this chance to climb here again! Haha.

Touristy jumpshot - A must! Overlooking a town, reminds me of Qingdao, or even HK.

Diamond Slab. V6. Sent this! Technique level up!

With Aaron who came one this trip as a route setter for the comp!

Groupie shot!

Crimp start for a V13. Couldnt start!

Comfortable route! Cant remember the grade, but there was a throw to this good ledge!

Captured a rainbow at this highball boulder

On a dicey route at Komiyama, really painful and small crimps here. Photo credits to Eddie Gianelloni.

Had such fun and really enjoyed myself on this trip. The miso cupnoodles, hearing everyone speakin eddie-chan slang, talking about climbing and the world, sticking my tongue out in the snow.. I think I really owe myself 1 x fun after starting the year 2014 on a low. Training hard for this made the memories even sweeter. #noregrets thats my motto this time. I did everything and all that I can. You can call this one final last burst of competition and dedication before I officially begin real work. But I really cant wait for more rock trips. Thats one thing I know I cant give up on. Its what makes me happy and keeps me sane!!

Till next time,
J

Took part in The North Face Cup 2013 in Japan with Jay Koh and Felicia Lim. Jay and I managed to clinch Champion for our individual Opens Category in NUS-The North Face Boulderactive in 2012 held at Marina Square and thus were invited by Yuji Hirayama (who came to routeset for BA) to take part in this competition.



Lovely view enroute to Tokorozawa from Narita Airport

The North Face Japan sponsored our accomodations, food and transport while Singapore Climbers Association sponsored our return flights to Japan. Hazlee and Felicia came along so that made us a 4-man Singapore team. Haha.

We took a 6 hour flight from Singapore to Narita Airport on 7th February 2013. Reached the airport somewhere in the afternoon and took a bus out to Tokorozawa where Yuji picked us up in the evening. We chatted and caught up abit on the competition and preparations here in Iruma. There was a huge team of setters all working hard through the night and I couldnt wait to compete and see the routes then! Was feeling really psyched and talking with Yuji makes you seehow much passion he has for climbing. Hes also a really gracious host! He brought us to check out his gym: Climb Park Base Camp, before heading to the Iruma Daiichi Hotel where we were to stay for the next 4 days.

Walked down the street with Jay and Hazlee to find some dinner. Finally settled for some Ramen shop which had automated vending machines to make your payment, etc.

Ramen dinner on Day 1 at Iruma!

10 degrees truly feeling like 10 degrees. :p

Then took a long walk back to the hotel again. Thats when I start to experience the cold! :p Brrr..

The first breakfast in Japan was Japanese style, with miso soup, rice and fish. Encountered the Big Up and Reel Rock guys.. Daniel Woods andTonde Katiyo joined in with us too. Got a whiff of psych from Tonde talking about the routes and all. Started feeling abit jittery because it seems the local women there are really strong. Also, witness first hand the beginnings of filming Daniel going about his breakfast and getting a first taste of Nato (fermented beans to be mixed with rice).

Beware the contents of the styrofoam box: Nato!

After breakfast, Cavin, a climber whos doing his PhD in Japan on Religious Studies took us around the place. It was Daniel Woods, Brett Lowell, Nick Rosen and us 4 Singaporeans that day. We took a train to Ueno Park to visit a temple where Daniel was supposed to get shots visiting and touring Japan. We hung around, explored, took photos. It was surprisingly very windy and cold! My hands were freezing. This was the first time I'm encountering such cold weather. Not sure if my fingers will able me to climb well this trip.

train ticket

Outside Iruma Daiichi Hotel

At a temple at Ueno Park

We also went to Ikebukuro where we had a nice shrimp tempura for lunch and met Nimi-San who worked for TNF Japan and was the man taking care of the athletes while in Japan.

Shirmp Tempura

Gear shop outside Harajuku Station

The guys intended to film Daniel at the Sky Trees, this tall tower that had a great view of Tokyo, but the queues were too long and we missed the timing. We popped by Harajuku and checked out a few gear shops and The North Face Store. It had an awesome kebab store just outside! Got myself a kebab and also an XS duffel lime green bag. XD Daniel of course got himself some stuff courtesy of his sponsor.

Qualifiers on 9th February 2013. Jay and Daniel were taking part in the qualifiers. Felicia, Jain, Akiyo and I were all joining in only the next day during the semi-finals as there were too little Division 1 ladies. We walked from the hotel, about 2km to the gym every morning. Feels good to be greated by crowds of people watching the kids category climb everytime we reach the gym. It gets your blood pumping and adrenaline racing, totally psyched for climbing!

These kids were doing crazy stuff, cutting loose and doing dynamic moves, things we dont even see much in Intermediate Womens category, these girls are doing it and they arent even afraid of falling! (Yuji told us at the end of the trip that there were ZERO casualties/injuried during this whole phase of competition - pretty neat and it makes you wonder why Singpaoreans always break and sprain limbs.)



Kids U10/12 category Climb Park Base Camp by Yuji Hirayama.



Theres a huge supermarket opposite the gym, and theres a huge pro-shop within.

Felicia and I with Yuji!

The format for TNF Cup was really differnt from what we have back home. It was 8 routes, 1 hour to complete against 50 other participants. Carnival style with routes taped up, no attempts counted and it was bonus-top system with 2 bonuses! The way I see it, the Japanese needed no rest, and they just kept going and going. Each attempt they do, they get better. Whereas for myself, my first attempt is always the best, and no matter how hard I try to get at that route again, I dont score as well. I guess the strategies and the ability for the body to adapt requires some experience. Caught the mens Divison 1 where Jay and Daniel were competing. The men were crushing the routes man! Jay ended up 29th out of 39 climbers. The top 17 goes into the semi-finals as the other 7 are places already guaranteed for the Champions of the qualifications round done around Japan the previous weeks.

The next day was a busy day.Semi-finals and Finals were on the same day. Wetook our usual walk to the gym and warmed up. I must admit, warming up in this weather feels so much different. My forearms were more pumped then usual, and I had to constantly stretch and just didnt feel right.In between the detail of category climbing, anyone competing that day had the chance to step up to the walls to observe the routes already taped up then. We didnt know that and we missed one chance to see the tiles up close, and also plan a strategy. The U12 boys were climbing some of our routes so I took the chance to double check some beta. I must have underestimated those boys because when it came to my turn to do the route, I did not complete it successfully.

I completed only 3 out of 8 routes with 7 first bonuses, while Jain and Akiyo and afew others completed at least 6 routes to get into the finals.There 3 routes on the flat/slab wall which i finished, while the others were on incline walls and more difficult. There was a dyno to a volume, sloper cmpression move, heelhook tension moves, alot of high steps and sit ins, moves to really bad slopers and crimps. Overall, it feels like the kind of routes we project in the gym, not the kinds I encounter during competition back home. But I pit it as a challenge for myself to get better and start doing harder routes when I get back.

Heres a video of a route which I thought I could complete. Alas my technique was no match for the Japanese and the inclined sucked all my powerrrrssssss... 




Results for Division 1Women

I placed 13th out of 28th while Felicia placed 14th as I managed to get one more bonus than her. I did imagined I did worse, but I guess we all have something to learn from this competition. The routes were hard. Attempting them again the next day made me realise how much effort is required to flash or top the routes in that 1 hour. I managed to complete at least 2 more of those semi-final routes. Gave me a sense of satisfaction. :) I tried out the mens routes as well, not easy. Kids finals routes, almost on par with our local OW finals routes.

Heres a video of Akiyo on the Div 1 Womens final route 3 between her and Jain. This is insane. I tried the first few moves and the amount of core and tension is INSANE.



Finals was won by Daniel Woods and Akiyo Noguchi for their respective categories. Rei Sugimato and Kim Jain were first runners up. It was quite a show and the first of its kind of finals there at the TNF Cup Japan. Knockout format from 6 to 4 to 2. All climbers would observe the route, then 2 mins + 1 to climb. Means no rest and a definite flash would guarantee a move forward to the next route. It was based on point system for finals. Even the kids went through flashy lights and public acknowledgement before the climb. Psyched music spun by JazzySport in the background and the crowd was crazy! We had dinner with the Pros back at the hotel. Thats where we started to get to know them a little better!

Thats Naoko-chan beside Felicia and Akiyo.Shes really sweet and shes the one liasing with us before the whole trip.

Panoramic view of the inside of Base Camp. Thats Jay climbing.

Jogasaki was about 4 hours drive from Iruma, all the way down south. We made a drive pass Mount Fuji and it was amazing. The weather did seem to get colder and it was almost 0degrees.




Mount Fuji

We checked into a nice resort looking place overlooking the sea and even had time for hot spring! We had to trek some distance to the sea side cliff and repel 10m down to the crags. There were quite a number of climbers there already and our group of 15 caused quite a stir. Haha.



Rappelling down to the crags!

The camera guys set up and got ready to take shots of Yuji, Akiyo, Sachi and Jain. Dan and Keito were resting for the bouldering at shiobara. It's not easy being a proclimber. The camera men pick the routes with the best lighting and nicest moves and the athletes climb it. Sometimes twice, so that they can set up the rope to carry the cameramen. It was windy and cold still and only managed to attempt 2 easy routes. My fingers were frozen and I had to stall on the overhang to get some feeling back. It wasn't a great feeling, cos I couldnt feel what I was holding, and couldnt move off from a hold. But it seems that close crimping everything was the way to go to get through it. Alas my crimps aren't as strong as Akiyo or Jain as they waltz up the 7b or 8a with ease, despite the cold weather. Yuji and sachi were the same! Jay and Hazlee managed to work on an 8a+.





Camera setting up



At Jogasaki

After everything, it was time to pack up and climb back up the cliff. Then it was another 3 hour drive back to Tokyo, where we stayed the night at Keisso presso inn. Each of us had our own room. Haha. Shiok. 

This trip was certainly an eye opener for me. Climbing wise, I got to meet some heroes and got a glimpse into their lives. I realised my weaknesses and got inspired by the locals there. the Japanese are really gracious hosts, always obliging and it was a pleasure workingand travelling with them. I saw how comps were dreamed up, and organisation flowed, how athletes were managed and how the community supports each other. I come back wanting to climb harder, to push the standards of Singapore's local scene. It also made me want to travel more and climb natural.