I think this little baby here is gonna be something different! I've managed to pool in some helpers in terms of routesetting, and gotten Onsight Climbing Gym to let us use their walls. Its not that big as compared to our local comps yet, heck, even registration hasnt seen big numbers yet. :p I know this may sound elitist and "oh-you-think-you-very-strong-ah?' but I want this to push standards and give us something to be proud of. I want climbers to know that competition standards elsewhere IS hard and we can climb just as hardat that level if we got the chance.

The formats abit different, similar to that in the TNFC japan. Just wanna let them feel what I felt (especially the psyche!) during japan. I've already got crazy ideas running in my head for this "series" to be continued in the other gyms! Plus I've got sponsors for prizes who stepped up just like that! Really awesome stuff, and I'm super excited!!

So registration's gonna close by 5th April. I must admit it is hard to the the girls participation number at 25. But the guys side is a tad bit disappointing. :p I know that the timings might be a little off, so thats one thing to note off when planning for a competition. Plus others are working, etc. Well, the show will go on still, especially for those who already signed up, I'm gonna make it special and awesome for them! Wait and see!

Till then,
J

I'm still quite psyched about climbing since I got back form Japan. I've got this radical plan going on to organise a small competition just for the open climbers here. Stay tuned for more info!

But works starting to kick back into my life, and I'm faced with an issue on whether I want to enjoy my worklife, forgo my dreams to represent, or still hang on to climbing, and just see where the road takes me in my career. Its a tough choice. It could mean that I longer have a leverage to ask for sponsorships, I might miss out SEA games 2015. I'm not sure if I can compete locally either. Time and commitment is gonna be placed elsewhere, outside of this climbing bubble. Can i take it?? Theres still this girl whos passionate and wants to climb out there, but how realistic are these dreams?

But I've got something good going on here with the girls. They are getting better, the team dynamics is improving, I'm becoming a better coach too. I want to love my job and enjoy going to school everyday. I want to inspire kids and make them want to play or climb more. If I take on the decision to put climbing first, will the rest of the other parts of my life crumble?

Theres alot of sacrifice going on here. But I'm not sure which to let down. So much potential for both, but I can only choose one. Perhaps I have talked about this many times, but the time is nearing that I have to make a decision. Climbing will be the same without me, but the kids whose life's I'm looking after may not.

Encountered this term during physiology lesson today: Detraining

"Detraining refers to the bodily effect experienced when one takes an extended break from regular, vigorous fitness training. Fitness levels and muscle mass can decline during a break that lasts between two and four weeks. While this sort of long-term break may reduce current fitness levels, it may also offer long-term benefits if the person starts retraining, allowing them to achieve higher levels of fitness than before detraining.

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-detraining.htm

Maybe this is why we always say we come back stronger after an injury?

Took part in The North Face Cup 2013 in Japan with Jay Koh and Felicia Lim. Jay and I managed to clinch Champion for our individual Opens Category in NUS-The North Face Boulderactive in 2012 held at Marina Square and thus were invited by Yuji Hirayama (who came to routeset for BA) to take part in this competition.



Lovely view enroute to Tokorozawa from Narita Airport

The North Face Japan sponsored our accomodations, food and transport while Singapore Climbers Association sponsored our return flights to Japan. Hazlee and Felicia came along so that made us a 4-man Singapore team. Haha.

We took a 6 hour flight from Singapore to Narita Airport on 7th February 2013. Reached the airport somewhere in the afternoon and took a bus out to Tokorozawa where Yuji picked us up in the evening. We chatted and caught up abit on the competition and preparations here in Iruma. There was a huge team of setters all working hard through the night and I couldnt wait to compete and see the routes then! Was feeling really psyched and talking with Yuji makes you seehow much passion he has for climbing. Hes also a really gracious host! He brought us to check out his gym: Climb Park Base Camp, before heading to the Iruma Daiichi Hotel where we were to stay for the next 4 days.

Walked down the street with Jay and Hazlee to find some dinner. Finally settled for some Ramen shop which had automated vending machines to make your payment, etc.

Ramen dinner on Day 1 at Iruma!

10 degrees truly feeling like 10 degrees. :p

Then took a long walk back to the hotel again. Thats when I start to experience the cold! :p Brrr..

The first breakfast in Japan was Japanese style, with miso soup, rice and fish. Encountered the Big Up and Reel Rock guys.. Daniel Woods andTonde Katiyo joined in with us too. Got a whiff of psych from Tonde talking about the routes and all. Started feeling abit jittery because it seems the local women there are really strong. Also, witness first hand the beginnings of filming Daniel going about his breakfast and getting a first taste of Nato (fermented beans to be mixed with rice).

Beware the contents of the styrofoam box: Nato!

After breakfast, Cavin, a climber whos doing his PhD in Japan on Religious Studies took us around the place. It was Daniel Woods, Brett Lowell, Nick Rosen and us 4 Singaporeans that day. We took a train to Ueno Park to visit a temple where Daniel was supposed to get shots visiting and touring Japan. We hung around, explored, took photos. It was surprisingly very windy and cold! My hands were freezing. This was the first time I'm encountering such cold weather. Not sure if my fingers will able me to climb well this trip.

train ticket

Outside Iruma Daiichi Hotel

At a temple at Ueno Park

We also went to Ikebukuro where we had a nice shrimp tempura for lunch and met Nimi-San who worked for TNF Japan and was the man taking care of the athletes while in Japan.

Shirmp Tempura

Gear shop outside Harajuku Station

The guys intended to film Daniel at the Sky Trees, this tall tower that had a great view of Tokyo, but the queues were too long and we missed the timing. We popped by Harajuku and checked out a few gear shops and The North Face Store. It had an awesome kebab store just outside! Got myself a kebab and also an XS duffel lime green bag. XD Daniel of course got himself some stuff courtesy of his sponsor.

Qualifiers on 9th February 2013. Jay and Daniel were taking part in the qualifiers. Felicia, Jain, Akiyo and I were all joining in only the next day during the semi-finals as there were too little Division 1 ladies. We walked from the hotel, about 2km to the gym every morning. Feels good to be greated by crowds of people watching the kids category climb everytime we reach the gym. It gets your blood pumping and adrenaline racing, totally psyched for climbing!

These kids were doing crazy stuff, cutting loose and doing dynamic moves, things we dont even see much in Intermediate Womens category, these girls are doing it and they arent even afraid of falling! (Yuji told us at the end of the trip that there were ZERO casualties/injuried during this whole phase of competition - pretty neat and it makes you wonder why Singpaoreans always break and sprain limbs.)



Kids U10/12 category Climb Park Base Camp by Yuji Hirayama.



Theres a huge supermarket opposite the gym, and theres a huge pro-shop within.

Felicia and I with Yuji!

The format for TNF Cup was really differnt from what we have back home. It was 8 routes, 1 hour to complete against 50 other participants. Carnival style with routes taped up, no attempts counted and it was bonus-top system with 2 bonuses! The way I see it, the Japanese needed no rest, and they just kept going and going. Each attempt they do, they get better. Whereas for myself, my first attempt is always the best, and no matter how hard I try to get at that route again, I dont score as well. I guess the strategies and the ability for the body to adapt requires some experience. Caught the mens Divison 1 where Jay and Daniel were competing. The men were crushing the routes man! Jay ended up 29th out of 39 climbers. The top 17 goes into the semi-finals as the other 7 are places already guaranteed for the Champions of the qualifications round done around Japan the previous weeks.

The next day was a busy day.Semi-finals and Finals were on the same day. Wetook our usual walk to the gym and warmed up. I must admit, warming up in this weather feels so much different. My forearms were more pumped then usual, and I had to constantly stretch and just didnt feel right.In between the detail of category climbing, anyone competing that day had the chance to step up to the walls to observe the routes already taped up then. We didnt know that and we missed one chance to see the tiles up close, and also plan a strategy. The U12 boys were climbing some of our routes so I took the chance to double check some beta. I must have underestimated those boys because when it came to my turn to do the route, I did not complete it successfully.

I completed only 3 out of 8 routes with 7 first bonuses, while Jain and Akiyo and afew others completed at least 6 routes to get into the finals.There 3 routes on the flat/slab wall which i finished, while the others were on incline walls and more difficult. There was a dyno to a volume, sloper cmpression move, heelhook tension moves, alot of high steps and sit ins, moves to really bad slopers and crimps. Overall, it feels like the kind of routes we project in the gym, not the kinds I encounter during competition back home. But I pit it as a challenge for myself to get better and start doing harder routes when I get back.

Heres a video of a route which I thought I could complete. Alas my technique was no match for the Japanese and the inclined sucked all my powerrrrssssss... 




Results for Division 1Women

I placed 13th out of 28th while Felicia placed 14th as I managed to get one more bonus than her. I did imagined I did worse, but I guess we all have something to learn from this competition. The routes were hard. Attempting them again the next day made me realise how much effort is required to flash or top the routes in that 1 hour. I managed to complete at least 2 more of those semi-final routes. Gave me a sense of satisfaction. :) I tried out the mens routes as well, not easy. Kids finals routes, almost on par with our local OW finals routes.

Heres a video of Akiyo on the Div 1 Womens final route 3 between her and Jain. This is insane. I tried the first few moves and the amount of core and tension is INSANE.



Finals was won by Daniel Woods and Akiyo Noguchi for their respective categories. Rei Sugimato and Kim Jain were first runners up. It was quite a show and the first of its kind of finals there at the TNF Cup Japan. Knockout format from 6 to 4 to 2. All climbers would observe the route, then 2 mins + 1 to climb. Means no rest and a definite flash would guarantee a move forward to the next route. It was based on point system for finals. Even the kids went through flashy lights and public acknowledgement before the climb. Psyched music spun by JazzySport in the background and the crowd was crazy! We had dinner with the Pros back at the hotel. Thats where we started to get to know them a little better!

Thats Naoko-chan beside Felicia and Akiyo.Shes really sweet and shes the one liasing with us before the whole trip.

Panoramic view of the inside of Base Camp. Thats Jay climbing.

Jogasaki was about 4 hours drive from Iruma, all the way down south. We made a drive pass Mount Fuji and it was amazing. The weather did seem to get colder and it was almost 0degrees.




Mount Fuji

We checked into a nice resort looking place overlooking the sea and even had time for hot spring! We had to trek some distance to the sea side cliff and repel 10m down to the crags. There were quite a number of climbers there already and our group of 15 caused quite a stir. Haha.



Rappelling down to the crags!

The camera guys set up and got ready to take shots of Yuji, Akiyo, Sachi and Jain. Dan and Keito were resting for the bouldering at shiobara. It's not easy being a proclimber. The camera men pick the routes with the best lighting and nicest moves and the athletes climb it. Sometimes twice, so that they can set up the rope to carry the cameramen. It was windy and cold still and only managed to attempt 2 easy routes. My fingers were frozen and I had to stall on the overhang to get some feeling back. It wasn't a great feeling, cos I couldnt feel what I was holding, and couldnt move off from a hold. But it seems that close crimping everything was the way to go to get through it. Alas my crimps aren't as strong as Akiyo or Jain as they waltz up the 7b or 8a with ease, despite the cold weather. Yuji and sachi were the same! Jay and Hazlee managed to work on an 8a+.





Camera setting up



At Jogasaki

After everything, it was time to pack up and climb back up the cliff. Then it was another 3 hour drive back to Tokyo, where we stayed the night at Keisso presso inn. Each of us had our own room. Haha. Shiok. 

This trip was certainly an eye opener for me. Climbing wise, I got to meet some heroes and got a glimpse into their lives. I realised my weaknesses and got inspired by the locals there. the Japanese are really gracious hosts, always obliging and it was a pleasure workingand travelling with them. I saw how comps were dreamed up, and organisation flowed, how athletes were managed and how the community supports each other. I come back wanting to climb harder, to push the standards of Singapore's local scene. It also made me want to travel more and climb natural.

i've been training for something, a goal, thats gonna happening the beginning of next year. you can say its nothing much, or maybe an obsession, or sometimes procrastination. i dont know what to make of it. but im learning new things which i havent encountered in my past 4 years of climbing. so heres a little list to remind myself of the lessons ive learnt. i dont know how to begin, which point to start on. but i'll get there.

when i first started on this journey, all i had were some experience in training programmes and mostly feelings that came and go, dictating when i should, like, want to climb. but ive been given various perspective, seen, watched, done different things outside of nus now.

1) i learned to combine certain things. like i would do locks and pullups. on bad holds or increase quantity. strayed from the usual phases. (which until now im not so sure if its a good or bad thing.. but we'll see)

2) i learned to put in 100% effort, not go through the motion, not take it easily. if its easy, make it harder, push myself. 8 pullups to 12 pullups. 5 sets plus one. lock for 10 seconds after the set.

3) i learned that the starting phase was the hardest. i was tired, i had no discipline. my focus strayed. i felt like shit after training.

4) i learned to take away something from each training. finish a climbing session without having learned anything about yourself is recreational. i made sure i worked on my weaknesses, i tested my mental, pushed my physical. i made sure i could replicate moves and not just a one time thing.

5) i learned to watch others climb. i learn how liting used to climb, and i see how she climbs now. i learn to control the whole body while making a move, not the overly static kind, but the one where the body finds balance, and the moves become smooth like silk and the route just flows naturally. i dont slacked my elbow and just weigh down on my fingers. i lock up the biceps, make sure my feet gets weight and i get the hold with 100%, and breathe.

6) i learn to not let injuries get to me. i need to do something about it. i went for yoga. i stretched, i took time to stretch. i worked through the mental block. and i try not to complain. if it affects me, just stop. move on.

7) i learn that climbing at different gyms help. they have different routes, the moves, the tiles, the people. the environment. no use climbing well at one gym and rubbish at the other.

8) i learn that as solo as a climber can get, we always need someone to listen to us when we have a bad day, we need to have that extra shoulder, the advice, the accompanyment during fingerboards. i learn to be grateful. to appreciate.

9) i learn to have fun days in between. to not be so hard on urself when things get bad and all you want to do is climb. so just climb.

10) i learn not to expect so much from yourself or do it for others. being competitive has its stressors. but there are times we need to let go, let loose. this is the hardest for me. because i always want to be the best, i know what i can do and when i fall short my world just snaps back.

i dont know what may come my way next year. a whole new season of competition and experiences. this whole training phase has been choppy, i took long breaks, i get tired. i dont manage my time well, i panic. there are times where i wish it wasnt plastic and that i was somewhere out there climbing rock. i miss that. i miss that so much. i miss it being the rock and me. not plastic and people and expectation.